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06.22
11

Light Dispelling Darkness

by admin ·

Art is subjective, but when the subjects of a work include a hollow-eyed banshee, a leering skeleton, idealized workers — and a Zeppelin – who wouldn’t be impressed?

That cast is assembled in a park fountain named “Light Dispelling Darkness,” unveiled in 1938. It was one of thousands of Depression-era WPA projects, many of which survive today as cherished examples of how jobless America dragged itself from the pit of despair. Quite a few WPA sculptures and murals are figurative depictions of communities triumphing through engineering, science, education and hard work. But the stakes of failure are high in “Light Dispelling Darkness,” a cautionary, crazy tableaux showing both good and evil.

Its creator, 32-year-old Waylande Gregory, was also the director of the WPA-funded New Jersey Federal Arts Program. He evidently got to do whatever he wanted with this particular project.

Light Dispelling Darkness was meant to be an allegory of human progress. In the center of the fountain stands a 15-foot-tall pillar circled with reliefs of the “good” in society. Dream-like people sit around a skewed-perspective peace conference table. Heroic scientists study lab equipment. Two square-jawed white guys, one holding a shock of wheat, one a big hammer, hold aloft a miniature Earth, while above floats a majestic lighter-than-air Zeppelin. The whole thing is topped with an Earth globe weighing nearly five tons, making it resemble the World’s Largest Light Bulb Tower that was built only a year earlier about a mile away. That was probably not a coincidence. Edison, industrial progress, dispelling darkness with a light bulb — you get the idea. An interpretive sign next to the fountain calls it, “the pinnacle of 1930s public art in New Jersey.”

What makes it most memorable, however, are the Evils fleeing the light. There are six, each atop a buttress radiating from the pillar. Death is a skeleton; War a Roman warrior wearing a WWI gas mask; Greed is two entwined octopi; Famine a cadaverous lady; five-headed Materialism spews a ribbon of Stock Market ticker-tape; and Pestilence is a blue woman with yellow spots lying under a horse with a dollar sign on its butt. If this was part of a fright ride, the Evils would abruptly race down hidden rails and soak you with spit.

Waylande used terra cotta to make his sculptures, which enabled him to infuse them with color, a novelty for its time. Unfortunately, terra cotta doesn’t age well outdoors, or take long to do it. Within a few years Light Dispelling Darkness was decaying; by the turn of the 21st century a tree was growing out of the globe near Alaska. Middlesex County’s Freeholders raised money and the fountain was disassembled, cleaned, patched, and repainted. It was good as new when it was re-unveiled in 2004 — but since then its faces have again begun to crack, its paint flaking away.

That only adds to its creepy charm, so no rush to repaint for now….

We’ve visited Light Dispelling Darkness several times, and can’t shake the sense that most park patrons barely notice it. Foot traffic in its part of Roosevelt Park goes to the Veterans Memorial next door. The strollers who do venture over seem to regard it as just a pleasant splishy-splashy fountain, not a circle of nightmares. It doesn’t help that its colorful sculptures don’t reveal themselves as ghouls and monsters until you get close and crouch down, which isn’t easy when the fountain’s filled with water.

Would Waylande, who died in 1971, be unhappy that modern eyeballs can’t seem to perceive his allegory? The evil of obliviousness is one that he apparently didn’t capture in terra cotta.

06.18
11

New Hampshire’s Old Man Resurrected, If You Squint

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June 18, 2011

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Billy Carter Gas Station, Plains, Georgia [Jun 13-19, 2011]

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06.14
11

Billy Carter Gas Station Museum, Plains, GA

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Billy Carter was the baby brother of President Jimmy Carter, and a frequent pain-in-the-rear to the Carter White House. He wasn’t the first or the last sibling to embarrass a world leader, but he may be the only one celebrated with a museum.

Much of the time when Jimmy was President, Billy hung out at his gas station in the Carter family hometown of Plains, Georgia. He would hold a can of beer and make blunt statements about his brother, government oil policies, and anything else that came to mind. Reporters flocked to his place of business, which was less known for pumping gas than for its indoor bar (stocked with cooler beer) and its backyard barbeques of grilled ribs and catfish. Billy wasn’t flaunting Presidential Brother Privilege; he ran the place that way long before Jimmy became President.

Billy Carter died in 1988. It took 20 more years for his gas station to become a museum — so long that the original building was condemned, torn down, and replaced with a replica. The Jimmy Carter National Historic Site covers dozens of acres and several buildings in town, but Billy’s gas station isn’t one of them. It was resurrected by the Plains Better Hometown Program, with help from Billy’s family and a lump of cash from brother Jimmy.

Harry Duke, coordinator of the program, showed us around, but a tour guide really isn’t necessary. Explanatory signs announce that the station is “a unique cultural landmark and a celebrated community gathering place,” while exhibits try to give some sense of Billy’s wattage in the disco ball of 1970s fame. There are publicity photos of Billy playing a deputy in a movie about lady truckers (“Flatbed Annie and Sweetiepie”) and another of him posing with a champion basset hound named Woodpile.

“Carter’s Closet” showcases some of Billy’s unique wardrobe, all of it really worn by the First Brother, according to Harry Duke. A denim business suit made by Harvey-Louis Krantz, “designer to the stars,” hangs next to a pair of custom bib overalls that Billy wore on Hee Haw. A fan created a wizard’s hat for Billy out of beer can pop tops (“Somebody,” said Harry, “drank an awful lot of beer to make that.”). Lying beneath his “Plains Pounder” boxing robe is the last pair of cowboy boots that Billy wore, still caked in mud.

Aside from sharing some chromosomes with a U.S. President, Billy Carter’s greatest claim to fame was lending his name to Billy Beer. Empty cans of it are all over the museum, most of them nailed down to prevent theft (A store named “The Peanut Gallery” across the street sells them for $5.00 apiece). According to Harry, Billy soon became embarrassed about his endorsement — not because it reflected poorly on his brother, but because Billy Beer was bad beer. “He said, ‘To like it, you had to be an alcoholic,’” Harry recalled. Billy reverted to drinking his brew of choice — Pabst Blue Ribbon — and Billy Beer folded after only two years.

But Billy made some money. A sign in the museum notes that the Billy Carter Gas Station sold 2,000 cases of beer and 45,000 gallons of gas a month at the height of the Carter Presidency. Then Jimmy lost the 1980 election, and Billy sold the station a year later. He died at the young age of 51.

Harry hasn’t seen Billy’s ghost at the station, but said he wouldn’t be surprised if Billy was hanging around. The small building is open to the traffic roaring past a few feet away on US 280, just like it was when Billy was alive. The gas pumps — set to 1979 prices — are the only parts of the original place that survived. Inside, the recreated station is all white, even the display cases, as if it had died and gone to heaven.

“I only had one person complain that it didn’t look like it did when Billy had it,” said Harry. “He said it was too clean.”

06.12
11

Sale Of The Century: Steam Pig Could Be Yours!

by admin ·

Road trip news, rants, and ruminations by the Editors of RoadsideAmerica.com

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Sale Of The Century: Steam Pig Could Be Yours!

A 55-foot-long piece of steampunk-inspired barnyard-cyborg art, Steam Pig, is for sale. It has to be moved by the end of July. Its creators are listening to all offers (Interested buyers can visit Steam Pig’s web site).

“There’s not gonna be another one,” said Jerry Adams, a designer acting as the artists’ broker. “It is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.”

Steam Pig was built for the 2010 ArtPrize competition in Grand Rapids, Michigan. It didn’t win, but its mega-porcine mass ensured that it stayed where it was. The metalloid porker quickly became a downtown icon. “You give directions by where the pig is,” said Gerry. “There’s a real groundswell of support to keep it here.”

Unfortunately, “here” can’t include the parking lot where it currently stands, which has to be cleared for the 2011 ArtPrize competition. Steam Pig’s size is part of what makes it special, but it also makes it hard to sell. “When you stand underneath that thing, it’s like, wow, that is a big pig.”

Gerry said that he’d already contacted local barbecue restaurants, Hollywood movie studios, the University of Arkansas Razorbacks, and Cincinnati, Ohio (aka “Porkopolis“). Thus far, no sale. The city, which purchased a Loch Ness Monster previously created by the artists, isn’t an option. “I don’t think they want to be seen as the repository for whatever these guys come up with.”

Jerry is, however, hopeful that Steam Pig can find a home with someone who genuinely appreciates it. “I don’t mind the rejections, because it’s always an interesting conversation,” said Gerry. “Worse case scenario, it gets parked on a street corner somewhere, and then we raise money selling candy bars.”

Steam Pig, Grand Rapids, Michigan

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06.10
11

Permian Basin Stonehenge, Odessa, TX

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The officially titled “University of Texas of the Permian Basin Stonehenge” was built in the summer of 2004 by a group of civic-minded locals. They thought that a full-size Stonehenge would make a good University teaching tool and a good Odessa tourist attraction. Although the original Stonehenge took 2,000 years to build, this one went up in six weeks.

The Odessa Stonehenge is built of limestone slabs weighing 15-20 tons apiece, and a plaque notes that the replica is “as it appears today in England.” That’s not exactly true. The slabs were leftovers that were donated by a quarry, so they’re approximations, not duplicates; the Stonehenge stands in a circle of reddish Texas gravel, not the green Salisbury Plain; and the Heel Stone, which marks the Summer Solstice, had to be positioned across the street. Still, it’s a good replica, and the space-and-time-warp experience of any visit is enhanced by this Stonehenge’s very visible neighbors, which include a Home Depot, a Staples, and a McDonald’s.

06.8
11

Colorado Gators Reptile Park, Mosca, CO

by admin ·

What you expect to see in Colorado: mountains, cars with ski racks, people wearing North Face clothes.

What you don’t expect to see in Colorado: alligators.

“I used to jump on their backs and surf on them,” said Jay Young, general manager of Colorado Gators. “Then a big one put six big tooth holes in my shirt. If I’d fallen off, he would have bit me in half. So I said, ‘I should probably stop doing that.’”

Since 1990 the Young family — Jay is second generation — has operated America’s most misplaced alligator attraction. Over a mile above swamp level in the alpine San Luis Valley, Colorado Gators endures weather that can fall to 30 degrees below zero, with temperature drops so rapid that Jay has found gators frozen in ice.

Yet alligators flourish at Colorado Gators, because it sits atop geothermal wells. The water in their play pools is a steamy 87 degrees year ’round. Frozen gators, Jay explained, are too slow to move out of shallows while sunning themselves in winter.

Colorado Gators began as a fish farm. The alligators only arrived years later, brought in by the Youngs to eat the leftover fish. “We never intended to open to the public as an attraction,” said Jay. But the geothermal water made the gators grow three times faster than normal, and the Youngs realized that tourists would pay to see their scaly garbage disposals.

To Colorado Gators’ credit, it has embraced its unexpected role. It’s at the center of its own alligator population explosion, boosted by abandoned pets and airport contraband (Colorado Gators claims to be the only “gator rescue” in the U.S.). Its oldest inhabitants now weigh over 600 pounds. They’re still young by alligator standards. No one knows how big they will get.

Dried fish are scattered along the pathways, free for anyone who wants to toss them into a gator pit and stage their own feeding show. Every visitor gets the chance to hold a small alligator, have their picture taken, and receive a “Certificate of Bravery” notarized by the gator biting it. “The photo is for our head count,” Jay deadpans. “In case someone disappears.” With alligator names such as Mr. Bo Mangles, Sir Chomps o’ Lot, and The Unigator (“He only bites off one finger at a time.”), the attraction sends a message that visitors should stay on the dry side of the gator fences.

Unless, that is, they pay $100 for Colorado Gators’ three-hour gator-wrestling class. Anyone who successfully handles a nine-foot gator is invited back every August to compete in the “World’s Only Alligator Rodeo” for trophies and bragging rights.

Jay climbed into the geothermal water to demonstrate his freestyle wrestling, unencumbered by traditional Florida forms (recall his earlier surfing story). The gators, however, were more interested in napping than fighting. Jay called to them as if they were pets (“Hey, Elvis! Come on, buddy! Come and get it!”) but only lady Kikoa showed any real interest, defending her nest of eggs. “She doesn’t want to eat me,” Jay explained. “She just wants to kill me.”

Jay enthusiastically described Colorado Gators’ latest project: a smoking “volcano” of geothermal water 60 feet deep, with underwater caverns. It will be built for scuba divers, who are nearly as out-of-place in Colorado as alligators. The Youngs hope to have it open in a couple of years.

The volcano will also be a home for Colorado Gators’ largest non-lethal aquatic reptiles and fish, which should free up room for even more alligators. They will remain safely segregated on the other side of the park, filled with the hissing and splashing of gators and happy squeals of terrified children.

06.1
11

R.I.P. Queenie, World’s Last Water Skiing Elephant

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June 1, 2011

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Gene Cockrell’s Yard Art, Canadian, Texas [May 30-Jun 5, 2011]

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05.28
11

Quantum Mechanics And Mr. Chicken

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May 28, 2011

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The Cursed Pillar, Augusta, Georgia [May 23-29, 2011]

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05.24
11

Castle Blood: Where Every Day Is Halloween

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Road trip news, rants, and ruminations by the Editors of RoadsideAmerica.com

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Castle Blood: Where Every Day Is Halloween

Halloween attractions rise from the dead every October only to fall back into the grave November 1st. No one has yet figured out how to trick-or-treat profitably 365 days a year, but some ghoulish attractions confidently display their outdoor skulls and props year-round as photo-ops for the macabre-starved.

One is Castle Blood in Beallsville, Pennsylvania. We talked with Chris, its operations manager, and Ricky (a.k.a. Gravely MacCabre) who lives in the Castle. “I’m very fortunate to be able to live and haunt in the same building,” said Ricky.

According to Chris, the Castle has a great location in Beallsville, which has a population of 500 and 5,000 in its cemetery. “The dead already outnumber the living.” Ricky said that his home wouldn’t have become the Castle without US Hwy 40 — the National Road — constantly streaming traffic through town and past his front door. “There’s always people in the courtyard taking pictures,” he said. Taking pictures of what?, we asked. Ricky mentioned some “vampire chicks holding torches” that he’d just completed.

Both Ricky and Chris — and their staff of volunteers — are dead serious about their haunt. Preparation begins in April for October, stressing story over gore, “a darker, scarier, Halloween version of the last 20 minutes of a Harry Potter movie,” said Ricky. Castle Blood has been in business since 1993. Both Ricky and Chris said they’d seen “Scooby-Doo runs” of frightened visitors who tried to run away so fast that they just wound up running in place.

The Castle may not be as terrifying off-season, but it still draws curious passers-by (the kinds of people who always die in horror movies), acting as its own year-round advertisement. “This is the country, but I’ve learned to keep my door locked,” said Ricky. “I’ve come down for breakfast Sunday mornings and found strangers in my kitchen, waiting to take the tour.”

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05.24
11

Crashed Flying Saucer, Meet Mr. G-Man

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May 24, 2011

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The Cursed Pillar, Augusta, Georgia [May 23-29, 2011]

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